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    188宝金博页面版: More on Anodizing Aluminum - KPN

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    内容提示： More on Anodizing Aluminum by Not sure, if this is a copy write problem, this will be removed. First, this is only meant to apply to aluminum. Other metals, such as titanium, niobium, and possibly magnesium and others, can also be anodized. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, and rapidly forms an aluminum oxide coating that inhibits further oxidization. This coating is useless as is, in terms of protecting the metal, because it is so thin. A thicker coating can be produced by immersing the part in an elect...

    文档格式：DOC | 页数：17 | 浏览次数：27 | 上传日期：2016-03-24 11:27:09 | 文档星级：
    More on Anodizing Aluminum by Not sure, if this is a copy write problem, this will be removed. First, this is only meant to apply to aluminum. Other metals, such as titanium, niobium, and possibly magnesium and others, can also be anodized. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, and rapidly forms an aluminum oxide coating that inhibits further oxidization. This coating is useless as is, in terms of protecting the metal, because it is so thin. A thicker coating can be produced by immersing the part in an electrolytic solution and passing an electrical current through it, similar to electroplating. The resulting film is nearly colorless, and can be easily dyed because it is very porous at the molecular level. Then, by placing the part in boiling water, the film's pores can be sealed; the oxide changes from one form to another as a result. To be more specific, parts should be very clean and grease-free. Commercial plants will first clean and etch the surface in a caustic solution, such as lye (sodium hydroxide), followed by a thorough wash. The parts are placed in an acid solution, such as 15-25% sulphuric acid, and connected to the positive source of a power supply (use only aluminum hardware to make the connection; no copper in the solution!). The part(s) comprise the anode, and the cathode is lead (lead sheet, or the whole tank might be lead). Appropriate current is applied, e.g. 1.5 amps per decimeter (3.4 square inches). This lasts 15-25 minutes if no dying is planned, or 45-60 minutes for dying. Dying is the next step, if desired. Since the pores are extremely small, many common dyes will not work. Some wool dyes are known to work, or you can purchase commercial anodizing dyes from an industrial supplier. Typically this involves immersion in the dye solution, which may have to be heated to be effective. (Steve Rayner reports that telescope builders like a black anodizing dye called Nigrosin Biological Stain, which is water soluble and mixed 1 teaspoon full to a quart of water; his bottle is labeled Aldrich 19,828-5 and cost around $35.00 Canadian, for 25 grams). Sealing is then done by putting the part in boiling water, which changes the film from gamma aluminum oxide a hydrated form called boehmite. Boil for about 20 minutes. Another anodizing process involves using chromic acid. This is not suitable for alloys with more than 5% copper. The film is thinner, but very durable. The very

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